Ultimate Guide to Spindles for Thread Spinning

1. Introduction to Hand Spinning with Spindles

Hand spinning with spindles is a craft that bridges centuries, connecting modern makers with ancient textile traditions. From the earliest civilizations to today’s fiber artists, the spindle has been a fundamental tool for transforming raw fibers into thread and yarn. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about spindle spinning: the types of spindles available, how to use them, what to consider when purchasing, and step-by-step tutorials for beginners. Whether you’re curious about the differences between drop and supported spindles, seeking practical spinning techniques, or looking for advice on spindle care and fiber selection, you’ll find clear, actionable insights here to help you start or refine your hand spinning journey.

Table of Contents

• 1. Introduction to Hand Spinning with Spindles
• 2. Types of Spindles for Thread Spinning Explained
• 3. Step-by-Step Spinning Tutorials for Beginners
• 4. Choosing Your Spindle: Weight, Design & Recommendations
• 5. Spindle Models & Performance Comparison
• 6. Spindle Maintenance & Thread Repair Techniques
• 7. Advanced Techniques for Consistent Results
• 8. Conclusion: Building Your Spinning Practice
• 9. FAQ: Spindle Spinning Essentials

2. Types of Spindles for Thread Spinning Explained

Spindles come in a dazzling variety, but at their core, they fall into two main categories: drop (suspended) spindles and supported spindles. Understanding their mechanics, strengths, and best uses is the first step to choosing the right tool for your spinning goals.

2.1 Drop Spindles: Top/Bottom Whorl & Turkish Designs

Bottom Whorl Drop Spindles: With the whorl (the weight) at the bottom, these spindles are generally heavier, providing stability and longer spin times. Their forgiving nature makes them ideal for beginners. The added mass at the base helps keep the spindle spinning steadily, so you have more time to draft and control your fiber before needing to wind on.

Top Whorl Drop Spindles: Here, the whorl sits at the top of the shaft. These spindles tend to be lighter and spin faster, making them favorites for creating finer yarns. However, their lighter weight means they don’t spin as long as bottom whorl spindles—think of them as the sports cars of the spindle world: quick, agile, but requiring more frequent attention.

Turkish Spindles: With their unique cross-arm design, Turkish spindles offer a clever twist—literally. As you spin, you wind the yarn around the arms, forming a center-pull ball that’s ready for plying straight off the spindle. This design is not only practical but also visually satisfying, as the yarn builds up in neat, geometric layers.

Physics & Performance:

• Rim-weighted whorls (weight distributed at the edge) spin longer, giving you more time between wind-ons.
• Shaft-weighted whorls (weight close to the shaft) spin faster but for shorter durations, perfect for fibers that need lots of twist, like silk.

Drop spindles are the go-to for most beginners and are adaptable to a wide range of fibers and yarn weights.

2.2 Supported Spindles: Precision for Delicate Fibers

Supported spindles rest on a surface—such as a bowl, table, or even your knee—rather than hanging from the yarn. This seemingly small difference unlocks a world of spinning possibilities, especially for fine or delicate fibers.

Single-Piece Spindles (Phang/Russian): Carved from one piece of wood, these spindles often have a curved or waisted shape. The bottom half is typically heavier, providing balance and momentum. Russian wands, with their long, slender shafts and slightly heavier ends, excel at producing fine, even threads.

Separate Whorl Spindles (Tibetan/Navajo): These spindles feature a distinct whorl, often a flat disc or cup, attached to the shaft. Tibetan spindles are known for their smooth spin and are favored for luxury fibers. Navajo spindles, larger and rolled against the thigh, are used for bulkier yarns.

Takhli Spindles: Small and typically made of metal, takhli spindles are the champions of cotton spinning. Their fast, smooth spin makes them ideal for short-staple or slippery fibers.

Why Supported Spindles Shine:

• The spindle’s weight doesn’t pull on the yarn, so you can spin extremely fine threads—even from short or fragile fibers—without breakage.
• Supported spindles are generally faster than drop spindles of similar size, especially when paired with a smooth spinning bowl.

They’re the tool of choice for spinning cashmere, angora, silk, and cotton—fibers that demand a gentle, controlled touch.

2.3 Key Differences: Drop vs. Supported Mechanics

Choosing between drop and supported spindles is a bit like deciding between hiking boots and ballet slippers—both get you moving, but each excels in different terrain.

When to Use Each Type:

• Drop Spindles: Best for wool, long staple fibers, and beginners learning the rhythm of spinning. Their stability and longer spin time make them forgiving as you develop your drafting skills.
• Supported Spindles: Shine when spinning short, slick, or luxury fibers—think cotton, silk, cashmere. They’re also ideal for achieving ultra-fine, consistent threads.

In Summary: If you’re just starting out, a medium-weight bottom whorl drop spindle is your trusty first companion. As your skills grow or your fiber choices expand, supported spindles offer new creative horizons—especially for those craving the challenge (and reward) of spinning the finest threads.

 

3. Step-by-Step Spinning Tutorials for Beginners

Ready to transform fluff into thread? Let’s break down the process into manageable steps, blending time-honored methods with modern tips and video insights.

3.1 Setting Up Your Spindle: Leaders & Fiber Prep

Creating a Leader Yarn:

• Cut an 18–24 inch piece of yarn (or spin a length from your fiber).
• Tie it into a loop and attach it to your spindle shaft with a half hitch knot. This loop forms the anchor for your first spins.
• For Turkish spindles, thread the leader through the arms before winding.

Prepping Your Fiber:

• Identify the staple length by gently pulling a small tuft from your roving—this is the maximum length you should draft at one time.
• Pre-draft your fiber: gently pull and loosen the roving, keeping your hands just beyond the staple length apart. This opens the fibers, making drafting smoother and reducing the risk of thick-and-thin spots.
• Split your fiber into manageable strips and, if needed, wrap it around your wrist to keep it tidy while spinning.

Pro Tip (from video tutorials):

Always keep your hands just beyond the staple length when pre-drafting—this prevents accidental breaks and helps you maintain consistent yarn thickness.

3.2 Core Techniques: Park & Draft vs. Continuous Spinning

Park and Draft Method (Beginner-Friendly):

• Spin the spindle clockwise to build up twist.
• "Park" the spindle by holding it still (between your knees or under your arm).
• Draft a small amount of fiber backward, letting the twist travel up into the drafted section.
• Pinch at the top of the drafting triangle to control twist, then repeat: spin, park, draft.

This method lets you focus on one skill at a time—twist or draft—making it perfect for building muscle memory.

Continuous Spinning (Intermediate):

• Once comfortable, try spinning and drafting simultaneously, letting the spindle spin freely as you draft fiber.
• Manage the drafting triangle by pinching at the apex and sliding your fingers back as you pull out fiber.
• Control twist by adjusting spindle speed and hand movements—more twist for finer yarn, less for thicker.

Twist Control Tip:

To check your twist, let a length of spun yarn fold back on itself. The resulting "loopy L" shows what your plied yarn will look like and whether you need more or less twist.

3.3 Joining Threads & Winding Techniques

Joining New Fiber:

• Overlap the end of your spun yarn with a fresh tuft of fiber.
• Draft them together, allowing twist to lock the join securely.
• Add extra twist if needed to reinforce the connection.

Winding On:

• For drop spindles, wind the spun yarn around the shaft, keeping tension to avoid tangles.
• Use the spindle's notch and hook to secure the working end before resuming spinning.
• For Turkish spindles, wind yarn in an "under and over" pattern across the arms, building a center-pull ball.

Troubleshooting:

• If your yarn breaks, simply overlap the ends and add twist. With practice, your joins will become nearly invisible.
• Keep your fiber supply out of the way—wrap it around your wrist or shoulder to prevent accidental tangling.

Finishing:

• Once your spindle is full, wind off your singles into a ball or onto storage bobbins for plying.
• To ply, spin the singles together in the opposite direction (usually counterclockwise), using the same park-and-draft or continuous spinning methods.

 

Hand spinning is equal parts tradition and personal discovery. Whether you’re learning the basics or refining your technique, remember: every dropped spindle, every lumpy skein, and every breakthrough brings you closer to mastering this timeless craft. Happy spinning!

 

4. Choosing Your Spindle: Weight, Design & Recommendations

Selecting the right spindle is a bit like picking the perfect pair of shoes for a long walk—comfort, fit, and purpose all matter. Let’s break down the key factors so you can confidently choose a spindle that matches your fiber, project, and personal style.

4.1 Weight Considerations by Fiber & Project

Spindle weight isn’t just a number—it’s a built-in “quality control” feature that shapes your spinning experience. Here’s how the numbers stack up:

• Lightweight Spindles (<28g / 1oz):
  Think of these as the ballet slippers of the spindle world—ideal for spinning fine threads, especially from fibers like cotton or silk. They spin fast and long, making them perfect for laceweight yarns, but reach their capacity quickly with thicker yarns.
• Mediumweight Spindles (28–85g / 1–3oz):
  The all-around sneakers—versatile, forgiving, and recommended for most beginners. These spindles handle a wide range of fibers, from wool to blends, and are perfect for learning the basics or producing medium-thickness yarns.
• Heavyweight Spindles (>85g / 3oz):
  The hiking boots—built for thick, sturdy yarns like those used in rugs. They offer more momentum, making it easier to spin bulky threads, but can cause fatigue if used for extended periods.

Why does weight matter? A spindle’s weight acts as a “running quality control” check: your spun thread must be strong enough to hold the spindle’s weight during spinning. For example, a 40g spindle ensures your yarn can support a 40g load while suspended. If your spindle is too heavy, you’ll feel it in your hands—and if it’s too light, you’ll be flicking it constantly, risking hand strain.

Beginner Tip: Most sources recommend starting with a spindle in the 25–35g range (about 1–1.25oz) and a whorl diameter of 6–7.5cm (2.5–3"). This sweet spot gives you enough versatility and control to learn without frustration.

4.2 Ergonomic Factors: Whorl Position & Biomechanics

The “feel” of a spindle is deeply personal—what’s comfortable for one spinner may not work for another. Here’s what to consider:

• Shaft Length:
  Supported spindles typically range from 9–12 inches. Shorter spindles are easier to travel with, while longer ones allow for larger cops (the wound yarn).
• Whorl Diameter:
  Whorls between 5–10cm (2–4") are common. Larger whorls mean more rotational inertia (longer spin), while smaller ones accelerate faster but spin for a shorter time. Choose a size that feels balanced and easy to flick.
• Whorl Position:
  Top whorl spindles spin faster and are great for finer yarns; bottom whorl spindles offer more stability and longer spin times, making them beginner-friendly.
• Comfort & Biomechanics:
  The best spindle is the one that “twirls nicely in your fingers” and doesn’t cause strain. Try a few different weights and lengths to find your perfect match.

Beginner Recommendations:

• Start with a mid-sized spindle (6–7.5cm whorl, 25–35g weight).
• Avoid extremes—too heavy causes fatigue, too light requires constant attention.
• Focus on comfort and natural spinning motion; let your hands guide you.

4.3 Top Brands Compared: Ashford, Louet & Schacht

Let’s put the leading spindle brands side by side so you can see which might fit your spinning journey best:

Beginner’s Pick: The Ashford Student Drop Spindle (top whorl) and Ashford Classic (bottom whorl) are highly recommended for their balance, affordability, and included instructions. Louet spindles offer more weight options if you want to experiment, while Schacht’s versatility shines as your skills advance.

 

5. Spindle Models & Performance Comparison

Ready to geek out on spindle design? Let’s dig into how the physics of weight distribution and brand innovation shape your spinning results—and which models excel for specific fibers.

5.1 Physics of Performance: Speed vs. Duration

Every spindle is a study in physics. The secret sauce? Where the weight sits.

• Rim-Weighted Whorls: Think of a figure skater spinning with arms outstretched—more weight at the edge means longer, steadier spins. Spindles like the Bosworth, with deep channels near the rim, combine fast starts with impressive spin duration.
• Shaft-Weighted Whorls: Like a skater pulling in their arms, weight near the shaft produces quick, energetic spins but shorter durations. Natalie spindles, with compact designs and weight close to the shaft, are fast spinners—perfect for fibers that crave lots of twist, like silk.
• Balanced Designs: Some spindles, like the Forrester Granny, maximize efficiency by removing unnecessary mass, delivering longer spins with less effort.

Performance Data:

• Standard hand-spindle production: ~60 meters/hour
• Competition top-whorl (long draw): Up to 200 meters/hour
• Relaxed, sustainable spinning: 100–140 meters/hour
• Note: Actual speed depends on fiber type, prep, and drafting style.

5.2 Fiber-Specific Recommendations

Not all spindles play nicely with every fiber. Here’s a quick guide to match your project with the right tool:

Pro Tips:

• For ultra-fine threads, supported spindles (like takhli) shine.
• For thicker yarns, heavy bottom-whorl spindles or Navajo types are ideal.
• Experiment! The best spindle is the one that feels right for your fiber and style.

 

6. Spindle Maintenance & Thread Repair Techniques

A spindle that spins smoothly is a joy forever—but only if you give it a little TLC. Let’s keep your tools (and your threads) in top shape, so you can focus on the fun part: spinning beautiful yarn.

6.1 Routine Care & Troubleshooting

Keep Your Spindle Spinning True:

• Runout Monitoring: Regularly check that your spindle spins evenly without wobble. Minor runout can be corrected by gentle straightening; major issues may require professional help.
• Lubrication: For supported spindles, keep the tip and spinning bowl clean and lightly lubricated (wooden tips with wood-safe oil, metal tips with a dab of sewing machine oil). Air-oil systems in mechanical spindles need frequent oil and filter checks.
• Tension Testing: Test your spindle’s tension by spinning a short length and checking for consistent twist. If the yarn feels uneven or breaks, assess your drafting and twist rate.

Common Issues & Fixes:

• Inconsistent Spinning: Clean your spindle and check for fiber buildup. Adjust your drafting technique—consistent hand position and staple length management are key (see the drafting video for hands-on tips).
• Hand Fatigue: Switch to a lighter spindle or take breaks. Ergonomics matter!

6.2 Thread Damage Repair Methods

Mechanical Thread Repairs:

• Thread Chaser Kits: For spindles with damaged mechanical threads (like those in lathes or machinery), use a thread chaser or die to recut and restore the threads. Start by cleaning the area, apply lubricant, and work the die back and forth to clear filings and reform the thread profile.
• Professional Assessment: Severe damage may require a machinist’s touch with files or stones. Surface-level issues are often fixable; deeper damage may mean replacement.

Textile & Yarn Repairs:

• Joining Broken Yarn: Overlap the broken ends, draft them together, and add extra twist—just like joining new fiber during spinning. Invisible repairs are possible with a little practice (see the drop spindle tutorial for a visual guide).
• Darning & Reinforcement: For larger breaks in woven fabrics, use darning techniques—anchor stitches in sturdy fabric, then weave new thread across the gap.

Prevention & Quality Control:

• Regular Inspection: Check your spindle and yarn for signs of wear, and fix problems early.
• Proper Storage: Store spindles in a dry, safe place to prevent warping or damage.

Final Thought:

A well-maintained spindle and quick repair skills mean less downtime and more time for creative spinning. Treat your tools with care, and they’ll reward you with years of smooth, satisfying yarn.

 

7. Advanced Techniques for Consistent Results

Mastering spindle spinning is about more than just keeping your yarn from breaking—it's about achieving that elusive, buttery consistency and tackling every fiber with confidence. Ready to level up? Let’s dive into the art and science of advanced spindle spinning, where control, creativity, and problem-solving come together.

7.1 Achieving Perfect Yarn Consistency

Consistency is the holy grail for spinners. Whether you’re aiming for laceweight or a chunky art yarn, the key is controlling thickness, twist, and drafting. Here’s how experienced spinners do it:

Plyback Sampling: Your Secret Weapon

The plyback sample method is a game-changer. As Amy Tyler from Spin Off magazine suggests, “A good strategy to maintain a consistent thickness in your singles as you spin is to intermittently test them; compare the singles you are spinning to some reference or measurement.” Here’s how:

• Create a Reference Sample: Spin a length of yarn—about 24 to 36 inches works well. Fold it back on itself to see how your singles will look when plied.
• Check Often: Tie your sample to your spindle or a control card. As you spin, pause and compare your new singles to this reference, adjusting your drafting as needed.
• Visual Feedback: This visual cue helps you catch inconsistencies before they become a tangled mess.

Drafting Control: The Heart of Consistency

Drafting is where the magic (or the mayhem) happens. The “short forward draw” technique gives you maximum control—slide your pinch forward over the fiber, smoothing as you go. To keep things even:

• Prep Your Fiber: Strip fibers to manageable thickness (about 2.5 inches wide is a sweet spot for many spinners).
• Respect the Staple Length: Only draft out half the staple length at a time. Over-drafting leads to thin spots; under-drafting creates thick, lumpy sections.
• Drafting Triangle Management: Pinch at the apex of the triangle and move your fingers smoothly back as you draft. This keeps the twist where you want it and the fibers flowing evenly.

Twist Rate: The Science Behind the Spin

Twist is the glue that holds your yarn together. The rate of twist directly impacts thickness:

• More Twist = Finer Yarn: Build up twist quickly for a thinner, stronger thread.
• Less Twist = Thicker Yarn: Slow down the twist for plumper, softer yarns.
• Spindle Weight Matters: Lighter spindles naturally spin finer yarn; heavier spindles are better for bulkier threads.

As you spin, pay attention to how your spindle’s momentum and whorl position affect twist delivery. Top whorl spindles generally spin faster, while bottom whorl spindles offer longer, steadier spins—both can be leveraged for different yarn goals.

Pro Tip from the Pros:

Watch your drafting triangle and staple length, use plyback samples as a reality check, and don’t be afraid to stop and adjust. Consistency is built one yard at a time.

7.2 Mastering Plying & Fiber-Specific Challenges

Plying is where singles become sturdy, balanced yarn—think of it as the final polish on your spinning skills. But not all fibers (or projects) are created equal. Here’s how to tailor your approach:

2-Ply vs. 3-Ply: What’s the Difference?

• 2-Ply: Classic, balanced, and perfect for most projects. It’s created by spinning two singles together in the opposite direction of your original spin (usually counterclockwise).
• 3-Ply: Adds extra roundness and strength, ideal for knitting projects that demand stitch definition. You can use three singles or try chain-plying (Navajo-plying) for a faux 3-ply effect—though this method is less effective with short-staple fibers like cotton.

Cotton Spinning Solutions

Cotton’s short staple and slick texture can be challenging. Experts recommend:

• Use a Takhli Supported Spindle: Its fast, balanced spin is ideal for cotton’s needs.
• Avoid Chain-Plying: Instead, stick with traditional 2-ply or 3-ply methods for strength.
• Prep is Key: Card your cotton for a criss-crossed, grippy texture that drafts smoothly.

Bulky Yarn Tips

Want to spin thick, squishy yarn? Here’s how:

• Choose the Right Fiber: Look for wool with crimp and a staple length of 2–3 inches.
• Carded Preparation: Carded (rather than combed) fibers are easier to draft thick.
• Adjust Your Pinch: For thicker yarn, grab more fiber in your drafting triangle and slow down your twist.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Inconsistent Thickness: Use your plyback sample as a guide. If you drift off course, stop and realign your drafting technique.
• Twist Woes: If your yarn breaks, add more twist; if it kinks, slow down the spindle or use a lower whorl ratio.
• Fiber-Specific Headaches: When in doubt, experiment! Adjust spindle weight, whorl position, and fiber prep until you find the sweet spot.

The Takeaway:

Advanced spinning is a blend of science and intuition. Master your plyback sampling, refine your drafting, and match your methods to your materials. With practice, you’ll spin yarn that’s not just consistent—but uniquely yours.

 

8. Conclusion: Building Your Spinning Practice

Hand spinning with spindles is a journey of discovery and skill. By understanding spindle types, refining your drafting and plying techniques, and maintaining your tools, you set yourself up for consistent, beautiful results. Remember: every fiber, spindle, and project teaches you something new. Embrace experimentation, stay curious, and let your spinning evolve with each skein you create.

9. FAQ: Spindle Spinning Essentials

9.1 Q: What’s the best spindle for beginners?

A: Most experts recommend a medium-weight drop spindle (about 25–35g) with a whorl diameter of 6–7.5cm. These are forgiving, easy to control, and versatile for learning the basics.

9.2 Q: How do I fix broken thread while spinning?

A: Overlap the broken ends with a fresh tuft of fiber, draft them together, and add extra twist. With practice, your joins will be nearly invisible—just like joining new fiber.

9.3 Q: How can I achieve consistent yarn thickness?

A: Use the plyback sample method: spin a reference length, fold it back to check thickness, and compare your singles as you spin. Control your drafting triangle and respect staple length for best results.

9.4 Q: What’s the best way to spin cotton on a spindle?

A: Use a takhli supported spindle for its fast, balanced spin. Prepare your cotton with carding for easier drafting, and stick to 2-ply or 3-ply techniques for strength.

9.5 Q: When should I consider upgrading my spindle or tools?

A: Upgrade when your current spindle limits your spinning goals—such as when exploring finer threads, bulkier yarns, or challenging fibers. Experiment with different spindle weights, whorl positions, and brands to find your perfect match.